We had the opportunity to stay at the boma of one of our guides, Musa, called Eluwai. We were all very excited for this stay because we were going to be able to stay for 4 nights which is our longest boma stay. We also had the unique experience of hiking into the boma. We enjoyed seeing the beautiful landscape and getting a feel for how bomas in the Monduli region were set up. We also learned that it is more difficult than you might think to jump over ditches and gulleys in shukas! We spent a wonderful first evening star gazing and talking amongst our group.
The next morning we started out on a hike up the side a mountain to visit the Oreteti Tree. The Oreteti tree is a special place for the Maasai because it has healing energy and provides a place of strong spiritual connections. On our hike, we walked through many different landscapes including grassland, forest, and agricultural plots. Many of us found it extremely interesting to see how much the land supports and talk to our guides about how the mountain side has changed over time. The hike and the Oreteti tree were definitely a highlight of the trip so far!
On our third day in Eluwai, we had the honor of participating in an Orpul, which is a very important ritual in Maasai culture. In Orpul, a group of Maasai isolate themselves from the rest of society and focus on physical and spiritual renewal. The food that is consumed during Orpul is traditionally meat of either a goat or a cow, and medicinal soup called Motori soup. To start Orpul, our Maasai guides butchered a goat and cooked it over a fire. The Maasai consume every part of the animal that they can, and they were very generous in sharing with us. First we each tried part of the kidney which was surprising tasty, then we went around and each drank a small amount of the goat’s blood. When the liver was cooked, those who wanted tried some of the liver. At the end of lunch, every part of the goat that could be eaten was consumed either by us, or by the Maasai men from the neighborhood who ate with us. Then it was time to drink the Motori soup, which we made from boiling medicinal roots and entrails of the goat. When it was ready, we each took turns frothing the soup in a large cauldron. Then we were each given about half a cup of it to try. The general consensus among the group was that though none of us particularly enjoyed the taste of the soup, we were all very grateful to have been given the opportunity to witness and participate in the Orpul, an event that holds very large significance in Maasai culture.
On our fourth day in Eluwai, a group of around 30 women from the village came to where we were staying for a Q & A session. Up until this point, we had heard a lot about the lives of Maasai men from our guides, but had heard very little about life as a Maasai woman. This opportunity provided a wonderful chance for the women of our group to have many of their questions about the lives of Maasai women answered. The Maasai women were also very curious about the lives of American women. The session was a very casual exchange that was full of laughter, which was made possible by our wonderful Maasai interpreters Rosa and Dinas.
Back at TCDC, we have been finishing up writing our course journals and reflecting and synthesizing our experiences in Tanzania. We have been exposed to several different perspectives and are challenged with thinking about the relationships and potential conflicts between them. Our last few days will be spent at our base camp with a few short excursions to markets in Usa River and Arusha. Preparing to leave our Tanzanian home is bittersweet but we still have plenty of time to soak up last bits of sun and Tanzanian culture.
Baadaye,
April