Saying goodbye to the southwest

Over the past month, we have traveled approximately 4,000 miles, visited 10 states, and climbed 3 mountains (a total of over 5,500 ft). We also learned about the ecology of the Southwest, completed research projects, and learned about the challenges of setting environmental policy. After a whirlwind of a trip through the Southwest, here’s a snapshot of our adventures from the last three weeks.

We began on a frosty January morning in Decorah and drove to Pagosa Springs, Colorado,  stopping on the way in Colorado Springs, CO to visit the Garden of the Gods. We learned about wildfires and the changes in forestry and wildlife that now affect the southwest. Sitting in the background was Pikes Peak, gently obscured by the clouds.

We continued south towards Cortez, discussing the migrations of the Ancestral Pueblo people who inhabited Mesa Verde, what made them unique as a civilization, and what made them eventually leave the area. We were unable to visit the Mesa Verde dwellings due to the government shutdown but were able to see two other ancient pueblos in Canyon of the Ancients National Monument.

On the next day, we toured Southern Antelope Canyon and learned about water rights of the Navajo people, and of the Southwest, including issues relating to the Navajo Generating Station. Later in the day we also visited Horseshoe Bend and a natural seep called the Hanging Garden where a number of plants were sustained by water leaking through the sandstone.

That night, we set up at the Cliff Dwellers Lodge for the next four days. Dark and early the next morning we started off on our first hike of the trip, a 1000 foot ascent next to Lee’s Ferry. Daily we frequented a nearby release site for the endangered California Condor- in the end, we were finally lucky enough to see a pair!

During our second day at the lodge, our hike was more climbing-intensive. We clambered our way through Cathedral Wash, a canyon cut out of sandstone. The “3-D” hike was a group favorite and rather difficult involving shimmying under boulders, climbing over rocks, and crawling across ledges to reach the Colorado River.

To end the first week of the trip we visited the South Rim of the Grand Canyon and took our first botany quiz, where we tested our knowledge of Southwestern flora. Our time at the Grand Canyon was slightly rushed in order to avoid traffic, but there was enough time for a scenic picnic near the rim.

Our next plans were to camp in Organ Pipe, New Mexico, but due to the government shutdown, we were forced to change our course and instead camp outside of Scottsdale in the McDowell Mountain Regional Park, a large natural Sonoran desert preserve just outside of the city. We stayed here for three days, cooking dinners in the rain and making s’mores.

Hike number three was a 7 (optionally 10) mile hike where we learned a second set of desert plants for our botany portion of the class. These few days focused on learning the ecology and adaptations of organisms to arid conditions. While camping, the night’s silence was filled with the sounds of coyotes. On the final day of camping, we took our second botany quiz on a quick morning hike.

After camping, the Santa Rita Experimental Range was our destination and home for the final week of our trip where we completed our research projects. Staying at the range was a nice change of pace for many us because it's home to Hugo, a friendly dog, and we had running water for cooking meals. While at the range we were assisted by both Brett, the caretaker, his dog Hugo, and his daughter.

Day one on the range we learned about the Sky Island communities on an enduring hike that was just over 4,000 feet in elevation and 8 hours long. This hike started at the cactus in the lowlands and went up into the snowy alpine forest, dotted with Apache pine trees and Douglas firs.

On day two on the range, we visited one of the Santa Rita repeat photography site, which has documented changes to the landscape and plant composition for over 100 years. Unfortunately, before we were able to return to the fieldhouse one of our vans got stuck in the sand. How many Luther College students does it take to dig out a 12-passenger van? Apparently more than 14.  After putting in a valiant effort, we had to be towed out by Brett.

On day three we went on a tour of the ASARCO mine and to the Sonoran Desert Museum in Tucson, Arizona. We also learned about another proposed mine in the Tucson area planned to open in the near future. The ASARCO mine is the only open pit copper mine in the U.S. that is open to public tour and gave us the opportunity to learn about the impacts of the mine from a new perspective.

At the Sonoran Desert Museum, we were allowed to run free amongst (some of) the animals. One part of the museum that was very popular amongst the class was the raptor show where the museum staff showed off the natural flights of two types of raptors in a display that had the birds fly mere inches over our heads. Post museum, we stole shade from a parked camper in the parking lot to sort out meals for the next few days.

On day four we learned about the constantly growing cities of the Southwest and the negative effects on ecosystems. Our discussion focused on efforts to conserve the natural areas that are at risk and the changing tides of development in the Southwest.

Finally, we learned about how federally owned lands are protected under the Wilderness Act of 1964 which focuses on leaving natural landscapes untrampled by humanity and able to be appreciated for generations. Moreover, we learned how this has inadvertently caused the deterioration of these natural areas due to the lack of disturbance.

Our last few days on the range were filled with field research, data collection, and cactus spines. Some of us opted to climb over 4,000 feet a few more times, while others were content staying a little closer to the field station and exploring the range.

After all this was done, we left early, into the rising sun to drive back home, trading the Sonoran Desert for the Driftless region back home.

A view of Horseshoe Bend in Page, Arizona.
The campsite in the Sonoran Desert Museum in Scottsdale, AZ.
Magnificent views from our trip to the Grand Canyon.